Part two of my piece in the Oakland Press.

What Michigan can learn from China: Embracing change

... don't know when I will be back again.... Well, that is not exactly true, I return to China at the end of October.

It was an extremely productive trip both from a business, educational and as always just a pure joy to see more of China and broaden my exposure, knowledge base in contacts in an every widening field.

While I have been to Changsha in the past I have never been to Zhangjiajjie and other locales in Western Hunan and they are stunning with business, tourism and educational opportunities. This is an area of China I could return to many times

I accomplished much. I made many new friends, especially Steve and Steven,  I have my "Chair-man" bamboo chair ( hopefully to get past the Northwest/Delta check in and customs) and  many new contacts. However, I did not find the Chinese musical instrument I have been searching for --- the Sheng. Oh well, something to add to the list for my next trips

My hope that we will see more individuals and organizations in Michigan and America building bridges to China in such a way that it benefits both countries.

I hope readers of this Blog will Check out the Dome Magazine where a feature article I wrote on China: Bridge To China-- stop Whining, Michigan, and Start building! http://domemagazine.com/blogs/cov0909

You may come to see my China article where I lay out a road map so that China's rise does not come at Michigan's demise--- but you will stay for the excellent writings and insights Dome offers it readers about policy and political issues taking place under the Capitol Dome. Check it out ---www.domemagazine.com

Click Here to read MLIVE's article on my China Blog

Ok, I am game-- as long as it does not come to the table alive or with the head still attached I am game for anything. The first course of Giant Salamander was rather tasty and not fishy or gamey like I expected/feared. It was prepared in a soup. What I thought was a Salamander meatball was meet on some bone or cartilage which I did not discover until was crunching down on it. I was particularly partial to the second course: Giant Salamander Longevity Noodles--- that tasted like--well, noodles.

We were joined by some additional business partners and there we were slurping Giant Salamander Longevity Noodles like we were long lost friends. I sure hope the noodles live up to the hype on the packaging--- if so, I have added a few good years to my life. I slurped every Girant Salamander noodle I could find. I was pleased to have reinforcement of local Chinese who were salivating to dine on the Giant Salamander. I thought more for them and less for me.

In between courses all six of my Chinese colleagues lit up a cigarette. The pollution in China comes from the factories, coal plants, coal burning stoves, the fact that the entire country is a construction site and -- cigarettes-- as it seems everyone in China smokes. Well, time was my friend. There was not enough time to prepare and enjoy the Giant Salamander as a main course-- or I might miss my plane. Whew! One final "gambai"or toast and it is off I go without having to eat something that is starring back at me.

As I am on my way to the airport I reflect on one more reason to return to China-- to savor the Giant Salamandor it all its glory!. Let the adventure and bridge building continue. As it turns out, we ran out of time and were unable to savor the delicacy of the Giant Salamander. Dr. Wang apologized profusely and offered a bottle of Giant Salamander anti-aging cream as a condolence. While I was terribly disappointed I graciously accepted thinking time was on my side this time.
 
PARTING IS SUCH SWEET SORROW:

This is my last day in Zhangjiajie I fly to Shanghai late tonight and directly on Delta/ Northwest directly home to Detroit tomorrow. The last Chinese breakfast, lunch and dinner meeting banquet until I return on business in late October.

Service

With 1.3 billion people creating jobs is a big if not bigger issue for government officials than it is in our country. Many retire from active work by 50-55. Service is king in China. There are many people to take care of any need or want at a extremely reasonable price from a Western perspective.

This morning I needed to search for a bag to attempt to bring back my peasant bamboo chair and the many gifts given as part of this trip. I asked a hotel staff person and I had not one, but two hotel staff members that escorted me on a shopping excursion--- at no cost.

I offered a 100 yuan tip (about $12) but they efused. "It is my pleasure," was the standard reply. "This is a quality hotel, we pride our self on service," said Yang Hua, (English name, Judy) the Lobby Department Manager of the Huatian Hotel in Zhangjiajie assured me. I should say!

A person who did a fantastic job in organizing this trip is Zhang Lihua of the Hunan Provincial Tourism Bureau. Every detail was taken care of and many meetings were arranged in advance and at the last moment to accommodate mine and others requests. Ms. Zhang is as delightful as she is a professional in all the services offered. Also, a resident of both Michigan and Changsha, China Mr. Steve Zhong, chief Editor of USA and China Travel Monthly, was extremely helpful in making this trip productive.

We discussed and had multiple meetings with investors and government officials interested in building a better economic, educational and cultural bridge with America.

Not The Last Of The Giant Salamander!

After a productive lunch with Mr. Wang of the Giant Salamander Company we took part in the ancient and extremely relaxing art of Chinese foot massage to continue our conversation. What a way to end a meeting! Yet, the meeting did not end there--oh no. I was invited to have a Giant Salamander dinner-- a true delicacy! - I will let you know how it goes.

The 29 year old foot massager, Ms Wang told me she has an eight year old daugher living in another province with her mother-in-law while her husband works construction in yet another--- not an unusual life for a young Chinese couple attemping to support themselves, their parents and to educate their child.

The family spread out across three Provinces. And likely to only see each other one a year for two weeks for the Chinese New Year. A hard life that few in America would accept. As the old saying goes--" I was complaining because I wanted a new pair of shoes-- until I met the man with no feet." Ms Wang did not answers my questions with any decernable sadness- thater a matter of fact, it is the way of life response.

Returning from Fenghuang to Zhangjiajie was another trip back in time.

Imagine, pigs and water buffalo walking down the streets, dogs are wandering everywhere, trucks and buses over flowing with people and some cases mixed with animals, ox carts, and humans pulling carts with loads more fitting for a water buffalo, men and women working the fields with a hoe or sickle, dogs lying in the road and drivers naturally maneuver around them, men carrying various loads balanced on bamboo poles across their shoulders,  people washing themselves and brushing their teeth in the doorways of their homes, women washing clothes along the water banks as well as men naked and bathing in the river,  and cars and trucks passing on blind curves going up hill and --- well, you only have a taste of what meets your senses as you travel this road.

One memorable incident is etched in my mind was when our Ford van  passed a bus and a dump truck loaded to the max  barreling down in the other lane  on us, as we occupied their rightful space on the roadway-- we could not have been more than ten feet apart when we slide back in our lane. I  could see the fillings in his back teeth as my life flashed by and we returned to our lane.

The ride was made peaceful and  relaxing, believe it or not, by our local Tujia, minority tour guide, Xiao Mao or (Little Mao) who sang us a folk song that is common with the local Tujia and Miao people two of China's 55 recognized minority group that live in the mountains in Hunan Providence and other locals in China.

The song is about girls (little sisters) and boys ( big brothers). The girls are inviting the boys to come join them and they will sing songs to them.

The song, a folk love song  (it has no name) sung in Chinese is beautiful and helped keep my mind off the roller coaster of a ride through the mountain roads.

The Miao People end their songs we a loud "Ooooooo Weeeee!"

After stopping at a gas station that charged one yuan (approximately 15 cent US) to uses the restrooms I have a better appreciation for why the peasant people are more apt to uses the roadway considering they earn only a few dollars a day-- besides, restrooms are few and far between in the countryside.

It Has To Happen A Lot

As we came around a mountain pass we noticed more people than normal standing around and may cars and trucks when we notice the rare stretch of guard rail smashed and a truck was a few hundred feet down the valley. As there were many people they and it was dangerous to stop to continued on and I reached to assure my seat belt was firmly fastened.

And a few minutes later we came along a tour bus with the front of it windshield shattered as it has just rear ended another bus. Onward through the mountains as we pass a truck and round a blind corner-- horn honking for safety, of course!

Quick, name a famous saying from the first president of our country. Well on the four hour ride back with a group of people in their -50's who grew up in Mao's China  they recited from memory poem after poem with  great laughter they were forced to memorize during Mao era. Mao's cult of personality lives on in China with a wonderful sense of humor.

Chinese Giant Salamander. Museum
No trip would be complete without a stop at the Chinese Giant Salamander Museum! No, I am not joking-- there is such a place. I  was told I was lucky as the giant salamander made a noise like a baby during my visit.

You can purchase various salamander gifts. My favorite was the stuffed baby salamander doll -- it seemed so cuddly. The Giant Salamander is the mascot of Zhangjiajie city.

They make various health and skin products that will help extend your life from the salamander by the Zhangjiajie Jinni Biological Technology Co. There is a large room filled with the various products.  Amway does not have any thing on them with products like: anti-aging treatment, whitening skin care set,  cartilage powder, longevity noodles,  and various other health foods of the Giant Salamander.

I have made it back to Zhangjiajie-- safely!

Two more banquet meeting here and in Shanghai-- and I will be back on the Delta/Northwest direct back to Detroit.

I love coming to China and find it both productive and fun--- but, I look forward to returning home.

The Great Wall, is just that-- Great.

Yet, like a boy growing up in Washington, DC and seeing the Washington Monument nearly everyday there are only so many times you can see the "Great Wall" before it becomes an "okay" wall. I have climbed the Great Wall outside of Beijing more times than my aching thighs will let me recall. Yet, this was a new experience climbing; the Southern Great Wall-- and I did just that.

More wonderful experience meeting you children climbing the wall with their parents AND grandparents and being greeted in English-- "Hello, welcome to my China-- welcome to the Great Wall." The sore feet was just enough rationale for another foot massage tonight after our 18 course banquet and business meeting. Nothing better than a Great foot massage after climbing the Great Wall!

The city was built in the Tang Dynasty. It is often refered to as the most beautiful and famous small city in China. 
What a delightful ancient city where the pace seems to slow along with the Tuojiang River that dissects the city also know as Phoenixcoty.. Here you see homes partially supported by  stilts  along the water banks and men poling their boats along the gently rolling river as local people was their vegetables and cloths on the water bank.

While the scenery is something right out of a tourist brochure-- again it is the people that make the country and the trip. The old women from the country side come to the city square to sell their fruits and flowers and the child squeal
and scamper about.

Fenghuang is home of the famous Chinese writer, Shen Congwen who spoke out forcefully for literary rights in China.

A young student approached me  and asked if he could have his photo taken with me. "Of course," I reply as the man that has been snapping photo's like a novice in China rather than someone who has been here numerous times. It turns out they are art students from a local university out sceahing with their class. With the permission of his teacher the young student, Mr Chen signs and presents me with one of is pencil drawing. I could not have had a better chance encounter with two of China's young people that will touch the future of all humanity. Xie ni ( thank you) for adding value to my stay in China.

Send Off

Some of the group I have been traveling with are leaving while I will have a few more days in Western Hunan Providence. Travel has a way of bringing strangers closer and I will miss my travel companions. As a send off we read a poem that Mao wrote in the Autumn of a 1925.

Patio Spring -- Changsha, China 1925

Alone I stand in the autum cold
On the tip of Orange Island,
The Xiang River flowing northward;
By their serried woods deep-dyed,
And a hundred barges vying
Over crystal blue waters.
Eagles cleave the air,
Fish glide under shallow water;
Under freezing skies a million creatures contend iin Freedom.
Brooding over this immensity,
I ask, on this bondless land
Who rules over man, destiny?

This sign greeted me this morning:

"Experiencing Human History Intoxicating With Natural Beauty!"

It certainly captured the spirit of the day!

The air is dirty... Yet the views are  stunning!

Here we are deep in Hunan Providence on our way up the Zhang Jia Jie or Wulingyuan mountain on a 40 minute cable car tram ride and a heavy smog hangs over everything like a heavy wool winter blanket.

Besides the coal plants and factories the entire country is one big construction site.

So, as I travel further up the Wulingyuan mountain, I hope for my sake and ultimately for the sake of the Chinese people  to be able to take in the beauty of the mountain view without the filter of smog.

Those that argue that man made pollution can affect climate change has not spent any time in China. Having the pollution block out the sun for weeks at a time is not good for the people of today-- or tomorrow.

The Wulingyuan  mountain has an elevation of one thousand thirty five meters.

..... And it is stunningly beautiful. Sure, it would be even more spectacular on a sunny, blue sky day without the ever present smog-- but the scenery is like no other place on earth. It is no wonder that it was named a World Heritage site.

We took a big bus to a certain height and then switched to a smaller one to climb further into the clouds only to board a tram to finish the accent.

At the peak we could see the soft rolling peaks lined with evergreen trees that bring back a reminder of a Chinese scroll showing this wonderful place.

The sites were more stunning around every curve of the narrow mountain trail.

On the mountain I accomplished one of my goals for the trip-- to buy a small bamboo peasant chair, not a new one-- but an old one. I proudly paid a  mere 50 yuan or about 7 US dollars.( I am certain I over paid from a local perspective, yet I had little time to bargain-- and I wanted this chair)  The chair is made of bamboo and stands less than a foot tall, is very comfortable. It does not appear any nails were used in its construction.

It was funny, after buying the prized bamboo chair, I had to carry it along the mountain trails. I would pass the local people and they would point laugh and say, Look at the foreigner, why would he want such a chair?." As you can imagine, I generated many stares snickers and " why would a foreigner...?"

What was even funnier was a group of local Chinese nicked named me the "Chair- Man" laughing in an obvious take off on Chairmen Mao! As I mentioned a several occasions, the Chinese people are very good natured, quick to poke fun and laugh and have a good time.

Yes, the pollution was ever present and the day would clearly be better without it-- bit a delightful day just the same.

A site to see in your lifetime. It is another twist of the kaleidoscope called China.

Control and Avoiding Chaos... at all costs

The Communist Party is a one Party system and its leaders will go to great lengths to assure that it stays that way.

One group that has grown by leaps and bounds in China and scared the Chinese leadership by its size in following is the Falun Gong.

This is a large sign displayed on a LED illuminated board as we began our trek up the Wulingyuan mountain.
 
"Destructive cult organizations are illegal established in the names of religion, Qigong and the like. What the ringleaders to do is to by exploiting, fabricating and spreading superstitions and heresides, deceive, bewitch and control people and further endanger the society. " Falun Gong" is neither a religion nor Qigong. It is anti-science, anti-society and anti-man. It is a  destructive cult to the core."

The Fulan Gong would not describe themselves in the same light.

Rubber, Chicken and Cars-- oh my!

The US imposed sanctions on China for what has been described as unfair trade practices when it comes to shipping tires to America.

China's leaders as a nationalist furor rose over the internet over the US's recent trade sanctions has decided to the widening the trade dispute, taking the first steps toward imposing tariffs on American exports of automotive products and chicken meat. This is  in retaliation for President Obama’s decision last week to levy tariffs on tires from China.

So we now have a rubber- chicken auto part dispute if not deftly handled by President Obama and Premier Wen
could escalate into a larger protectionism that will hurt both countries.

Both the US and China's politicians are  attempting  to play to domestic audiences frightened by the loss of jobs and the stalling of the world economy. Yet, like the US all politics is local in China as well.

Let's up this problem does not spin out of control.

Sunday: 9-13:

As the US imposes tariffs on tires imported entering America, China's Premier, Wen Jibao said at an opening ceremony at the 2009 Davos forum held in the port City of Dalian in northeast China," With the shadow of the global economy financial crisis still lingering, the International community must not waiver in its resolve or slacken its efforts against protectionism."

The Premier reminded the world that China has gone on several trade and investment, promotion meetings to Europe and America to purchase goods and boost investment cooperation.

Many in Congress, labor unions and certain industries would say "actions speak louder than words" and would like China to do a better job when it comes to not only "free" but also "fair" trade.

President Obama and Premier Wen will have much to discuss when they meet in a few weeks

Changsha

Changsha is the capitol of Hunan Province with a 3,500 year history. Hunan Province is in south central China there are nearly people who live in Changsha.

This is Mao's and Liu Shaoqi, another famous person and leader of the Revolutionary period come from Hunan home Province.

Last evening we went to Orange Island Park, similar to Belle Island on a grander scale. It is a long and narrow island in the Xiangjianng river that dissects Hunan Province from North to South. We saw a beautiful variety show of local dancing and singing.

A highlight was to see Mao's great grandson, Mao Dong Dong of about five years of age recite by memory one of his Great Grandfathers poems that Mao wrote at age 29 about the beauty of Changsha. Few in the West would think of poetry when they think of Mao. The chaos of the Great Leap Forward or the Cultural Revolution may come to mind-- but not poetry!

This poem expresses the grand world vision of a youthful Mao.

The title of the Poem is Juzhizhoutou and it means Changsha Island Place. This is a place where Mao would go swimming as a young man

The theme of Mao's lengthy poem which is repeated  often and traces China's 5,000 year history recited by his 5 year old Great Grandson Mao Dong Dong ("Dong" means East in Chinese) can be summed up by this line: "Ask the great world, who is the true leader?"

Museum
The Hunan Provincial Museum is worth the time with English speaking tour guides to maximize the benefit. There are many cultural relics to absorb.

Think Globally Act Locally

We are now on a 4-5 hour bus ride to the country-side of famous  Zhang Jia Jie. This journey took 12-14 hours just ten years ago as a way to dramatize the rapid infrastructure taking place across China.

A friend originally from Zhang Jia Jie,  now living in Michigan related this story:

"You have to try "Tou Ji" (organic/local chicken) and "yan er'(kind of like a black mushroom that is grown high in the mountains) in Zhang Jia Jie, but be careful because you may be ripped off by the pricing of it. Last time when we went to Jiang Jia Jie, my brother, who still lives there hired a tour guide to go to the mountains because he didn't come with us.  This is only one meal that we had to make our own and the tour guide brought us to a little hut to eat.  We were so excited to eat Tu Jia food and after, my girlfriend paid the bill 660 yuan (approx 100 US)  for 4 small dishes and one hot pot.  I realized that maybe there was something wrong and then I called my brother.  He was upset and told me that 250 or 300 would have been a fair price in that area. The owner disappeared  after our meal.  My brother and sister in law laughed at us-- how did four smart Chinese ladies who live in the U.S. get tricked by people in China?

"Your nose and hair will tell them you are rich. Make sure ask the price first, Shawnee laughed."

Ah, the joys of travel! I told my friend, not to worry-- I will tell the people of Zhang Jia Jie that I too am a "Tou Ji" or local people and they will not "rip me off"

One of the true joys in China is interacting with the local people -- they will laugh, argue and negotiate with you--- as Shawnee says--- it always pays to ask the price first!

The country-side is landscaped in small patches of rice and vegetable fields that have become much more productive since collectivism ended as China opened to the world three decades ago.

Lunch In Changde

The place of Changde is as beautiful as a peach blossom, so wrote Tao Yuanming in the Jin Dynasty (317-420)
Well, things have changed a bit since then-- peach blossom is not what came to mind as we entered Changde, more like many small towns I have visited in my travels. It is full of local color and more typical of how the vast majority of the 1.3 billion of people live than what is seen in the big towns that are familiar to the Western ear.

The tour guide decided not to have us eat at the first stop as the dishes were to "local." So the next stop for lunch--- well, I will let you decide.

Lunch included: Mandarin fish with  cooked carrot balls, Goose, Mutton stew starch, Deep-fried bull frog, Beef knuckle, Fried shredded ox trip with sliced bamboo shoots, Rice bean curd and  Sour radish with tripe. Certainly not the standard fare back home-- but very tasty, especially the Deep-fried bull frog-- tasted like-- you guessed it, chicken!

Mao

I asked, through an interpreter, why the bus driver has a Mao bust and a picture of Mao on this window? His reply," Mao was a great man-and he keeps me safe." Mao is like the Catholic's St. Christopher for Chinese drivers. Anyone who has traveled by car and bus in China--- will uses any assurance they can get!

Speaking of Mao, one of his favorite dishes is humbly dish referred to as "Mao's Family Pork" with soy sauce. Prepared half-fat and half lean pork, cut into cubes, add soy sauce and a small amount of sugar and braise the pork. It is quite tasty-- but not on the heart smart menu.

Another traditional dish in
Zhangjiajie for family reunions or to celebrate the Spring Festival is made with turnips, bean curd, Chinese cabbage, pork and chili peper which is stewed in a pot. The dish is a symbol of a good harvest and famuly reunion in the coming year.

Next stop---  Zhangjiajie

We were told to dress very casual for our day of travel. All day in a Bus and....
We left at 9 AM on our way from Changsha to Zhang Jia Jie.

After a few sweaty stops we arrive at 5 PM to be informed, " no time to stop at the hotel, we have dinner with the Mayor of Zhang Jia Jie.

So here we are in jeans, shorts saddles and T-shirts on our  way to meet the Mayor.

The good thing is I introduced myself to the Mayor last night at the fireworks--- he seems to have a sense of humor!

"One has to be flexible when they travel in China," the Mayor laughed

Read my recent opinion article on The Oakland Press.

How Michigan can benefit from an emerging China